Types of radiator explained: panel, column, vertical and more
Updated 6 November 2026 · By the Radiator Installation team
Panel radiator types
Steel panel radiators are described by a two-digit type number: the first digit is the number of water-filled panels, the second is the number of convector fin sets welded behind them. More panels and fins mean more heat from the same height and length, but a deeper radiator.
As a rough rule, moving from a Type 11 to a Type 22 of the same height and length gives somewhere around 60 to 80 percent more heat, which is why swapping an old single panel for a double convector is such a common fix for a cold room. The extra depth matters behind doors, in narrow halls and where curtains or furniture sit close to the wall, so measure the clearance before choosing.
| Type | Also called | Build | Relative output | Typical depth |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Type 10 | Single panel, no fins | One panel | Lowest | About 50 mm |
| Type 11 | K1 or single convector | One panel, one set of fins | Low to medium | About 60 mm |
| Type 21 | P+ or double panel plus | Two panels, one set of fins | Medium to high | About 75 mm |
| Type 22 | K2 or double convector | Two panels, two sets of fins | High | About 100 mm |
| Type 33 | K3 or triple convector | Three panels, three sets of fins | Highest | About 160 mm |
Depths vary by brand. Type 22 is the most common choice for living rooms, and Type 33 is often used for heat pump upgrades where wall space is limited.
Other radiator styles
| Style | Best for | Things to know |
|---|---|---|
| Column | Period homes, open-plan rooms | Heavy, holds more water, may need floor feet |
| Vertical | Narrow walls, alcoves, kitchens | Can give less output than its size suggests |
| Aluminium | Fast warm-up, low water content | Usually more expensive, needs suitable inhibitor |
| Cast iron | Period character, slow steady heat | Very heavy, needs strong fixing and floor support |
| Flat panel designer | Modern look on show | Often lower output than a standard panel |
| Fan-assisted | Heat pumps and low-temperature systems | Needs a small electrical supply |
How finish affects heat output
Finish makes more difference than many people expect. Chrome and polished metal finishes radiate heat less effectively than painted surfaces, so a chrome towel rail typically gives roughly 20 to 30 percent less heat than the same rail in white. Covering a radiator with a decorative cabinet, a shelf or long curtains also reduces the heat reaching the room.
Colour of paint makes very little difference; a black, grey or coloured painted radiator gives out much the same heat as a white one. Textured and matt painted finishes perform similarly to gloss. It is bare and plated metal that loses out.
Steel, aluminium and cast iron compared
| Material | Warm-up speed | Heat retention | Weight | Typical cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Steel | Medium | Medium | Moderate | Lowest |
| Aluminium | Fast | Low | Light | Higher |
| Cast iron | Slow | High | Very heavy | Highest |
Steel is by far the most common because it is cheap, widely available in standard sizes and performs well. Aluminium heats and cools quickly, which suits rooms used in short bursts, but it reacts differently with water chemistry, so the system inhibitor must be suitable for mixed metals. Cast iron holds heat for a long time after the boiler switches off, which some people love in period homes, but a large cast iron radiator full of water can weigh well over 100 kg and needs floor-standing feet or very solid wall fixings.
Understanding output figures
Radiator outputs are tested to BS EN 442 and usually quoted at Delta T50, meaning the average water temperature is 50°C above a room temperature of 20°C. Some manufacturers quote Delta T60 or Delta T70, which gives a bigger number for the same radiator. When comparing radiators, make sure every figure is at the same Delta T, and remember that a system running cooler than Delta T50, such as a heat pump or a condensing boiler run at a low flow temperature, will get less than the headline figure.
Which type for which room
- Living room: Type 22 panel or a multi-column radiator, sized to the heat loss
- Bedrooms: Type 11 or Type 21 is often enough in a well-insulated room
- Kitchen: vertical or compact Type 22 where wall space is taken by units
- Bathroom: painted towel rail, or a towel rail plus a small radiator in a cold room
- Hallway: Type 22 near the front door, as halls lose heat every time it opens
- Heat pump homes: Type 22, Type 33 or fan-assisted radiators sized at the design flow temperature
Whatever the style, the radiator should be chosen from the heat the room needs first and the look second. It is common to find that a favourite designer radiator needs to be a size larger than expected, or that two smaller radiators on different walls heat a long room more evenly than one large one.
Connections and valve positions
Radiators connect in a few standard ways, and this affects whether a new radiator can drop straight onto the old pipework. Most panel radiators are bottom-opposite-end, with a valve at each lower corner. Some designer and towel radiators use bottom-centre or side connections, and many have the valves underneath rather than at the sides. If you are changing style, check the connection type and the valve centres against where your pipes come out, as altering pipework can add noticeably to the cost.
- Bottom opposite end: the standard for panel radiators
- Same end: both pipes at one end, used where only one side is accessible
- Bottom centre: twin pipes close together, common on vertical and designer models
- Side or top connections: found on some towel rails and older radiators
Related guides
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- Replace a radiator like for like or upgrade? Pros, cons and costs
- How to choose a radiator installer: questions to ask and red flags
- Radiator replacement: how long it takes and what to expect on the day
- Radiator problems: repair, flush or replace?
- Radiators in rented homes: a landlord's guide
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